We want to squash some of those rumors. So lets get started and straighten a few things out.

Myth 1: Your shingles are old so it is time to replace the whole roof

This one gets tossed around endlessly and basically anywhere a roofer owns a ladder. Someone walks up, looks at your roof, and suddenly your 18 year old shingles are being treated like ancient relics.

Reality is not nearly that dramatic. Around the Mid Atlantic, a well installed shingle roof will often last 25 to 30 years and sometimes longer. We have been on thousands of roofs and plenty of them were still going strong at the 30 year mark.

If a contractor insists your 18 to 22 year old roof is finished, get another opinion. Your roof might still have a perfectly healthy decade left in it.

Myth 2: You have hail damage and your insurance will pay for a new roof

This pitch pops up all over Pennsylvania. A roofer knocks and tells you there is hail damage that will qualify you for a free roof. Sounds like winning the lottery until you realize severe hail damage is extremely rare in Central PA.

The type of hail that actually shortens the life of shingles does not happen around here very often. We have even seen contractors create fake hail marks to file claims. Now, we aren’t saying every roofer is out there staging crime scenes on people’s roofs, but it does happen and it drives up insurance costs for everyone.

If someone claims you have hail damage, slow down. Get a second opinion before you get roped into something shady.

Myth 3: Your roof is too old to repair and you should replace it instead

Once a roof hits 15 years old, some contractors treat repairs like a waste of time. They say it is not worth investing in and you should jump straight to a replacement.

This isn’t quite true. A 15 to 20 year old roof can still have a lot of life left. We regularly repair roofs that other companies have written off. If your roof is closer to 25 years old and showing serious wear, then sure, a roof replacement becomes the obvious choice. But repairs are often dismissed way too early in our neck of the woods.

Before you sign for a full replacement, make sure repairs are truly off the table.

Myth 4: You can install shingles anytime in winter without issues

Technically, you can. But practically? It really depends. Winter across the Susquehanna Valley makes asphalt shingles stiff and brittle. Nail depth matters. Handling matters. Experience matters. If cold weather installation is done carelessly, you end up with cracked shingles, nails pulling through and a shorter roof life.

A winter install done the right way will last just as long as a summer install. A winter install done the wrong way will not. That is the difference between a crew that knows how to handle cold weather work and a crew that just wants to squeeze in another job before spring.

What homeowners across Central PA actually need to know

Whether you live in Lancaster, York, Lebanon, Harrisburg, or any of the small towns in between, roofing should not feel like a guessing game. You deserve real information, not scare tactics. You deserve advice based on the lifespan of roofs in our region, not the lifespan of a contractor’s sales quota.

Straight talk, honest assessments and work done the right way are how homes stay protected in Central PA. And if you ever need someone to help decode roofing nonsense or double check what another company told you, reach out to us! We’d be more than glad to help.

The post Roofing Myths Central PA Homeowners Should Stop Believing appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Choosing between a repair and a full replacement is a big deal for any homeowner. We only recommend replacement when repairs are unreliable or risky. Here is how to tell what your roof is really trying to say.

4 Indicators It Is Time To Replace

1) Shingle Wear

Shingles are made of a fiberglass base, coated in asphalt, and then covered with colored stone granules to protect the asphalt from wear and tear from exposure to the elements. Over time, those granules slowly wash out of the asphalt. How fast this happens depends somewhat on the quality of the shingle that you buy, but typically this happens between 25 and 35 years after installation here in the Southeastern PA area. ASTM has done extensive testing on this, which you can read about here. This timing is largely dependent on local weather. More storms, or more direct sunshine causes this to happen faster than places with more moderate weather.

Once the asphalt is exposed to the sun, that will break down quickly and then expose the underlying fiberglass matting. When you can see the fiberglass showing through, it’s a strong indicator that the shingles are going fast and the system should be replaced.

2) Widespread Sealant Failure

There’s a tar adhesive strip on the back of each shingle, near the bottom. I talk about this in my video review of roof rejuvenation products currently on the market. This tar strip adheres the shingles to each other, keeping the fasteners covered and the shingles tight. As the shingles age, this adhesive strip becomes less and less effective. Sometimes, there is widespread, premature failure of the tar strip, which means that the shingles will flap and blow off in windy conditions. While replacing individual shingles is an easy repair, once it starts happening, it’s very likely to keep happening across the roof as things go from bad to worse. So, if the shingle tar strip is failing, you would be better off replacing the roof instead of sinking money into repeated repairs.

Not to say that repairs aren’t possible! In the case of sealant failure, it is possible to hire a roofer to go throughout the entire roof, resealing each individual shingle with new roof cement. I would do this if I could confidently say that the shingles themselves would otherwise last for at least 10 more years.

Usually, if you’re having shingles blow off your roof from time to time, this is likely the source of the problem. You should contact us to schedule an inspection. We can help you determine whether it’s better to do a repair and seal the shingles one by one, or whether replacement might be better.

3) Nail pops and fastener issues

Small bumps across the roof usually mean nails have pushed up and are rusting. Fixing one or two is fine. Seeing many means a system wide issue that keeps coming back.

Why do nails back out through the shingles over time, you ask? If a roof attic is not properly vented, the heat and cold cycles cause the roof decking to contract in cold, expand in heat, and warp/break down over time. This, in turn, causes the nails to start popping out of the decking and out through the shingles. It’s bad for a few reasons:

• Loose nails mean loose shingles, and loose shingles don’t stay on the roof!
• Nails back out through the shingles, creating holes for water to get through.
• Nail pops like this cause the shingle tar strip sealant to break loose.

Again, an issue like this can be repaired on individual shingles without much ado. But also, a nail pop here and there is indicative of a system-wide problem, so doing repairs is kind of like an expensive game of whack-a-mole over time.

4) Age

Most asphalt shingle roofs last about 30 years. Yes, we’ve seen shingle roofs over 40 years old. We’ve also seen roofs that are trash after 20 years. So we give 30 years as the point at which you should definitely be thinking about replacement. This gap in longevity is due to:

• Quality of the shingles (they’re not all created equal)
• Weather conditions (scorching sun every day, or frequent strong storms will take a toll)
• Pitch of the roof (a low-pitched roof is more susceptible to wind, snow, and ice damage over time)

So if your roof is near or past that 30 year mark and/or showing damage, putting more money into repairs is a risky bet. You are postponing a replacement that is already close.

When A Repair Makes Sense

We like helping our customers be smart with how they approach their roof expenses. If your roof is under 20 years and the issue is isolated, a repair is usually a win. Stuff that we repair on roofs all the time include things like:

• Cracked pipe boot seals
• Failed step flashing
• Loosening counter flashing
• Cracked/missing caulk on flashing
• Poorly performing, or leaky ridge vent
• Leaky chimney flashing
• Leaky skylights

Quick Comparison Chart

Why An Inspection Matters

Most of these problems are not visible from the ground. Many people do not realize there is an issue until a ceiling stain shows up. By then the damage can be expensive. A quick, professional inspection catches small problems before they turn into big ones.

FAQ

The post Should You Repair or Replace Your Roof? 4 Factors to Help You Decide. appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

We hear that question all the time from homeowners across Elizabethtown, Lititz, and down through Mechanicsburg. The short answer: not when Joyland’s handling the delivery of the dumpsters.

Here’s how our crew keeps your property safe while making sure your dumpster drop-off is smooth and stress-free.

Step 1: We Scout the Spot Before the Truck Even Rolls

Before we leave the yard, we look up your address on Google Maps to get a feel for your property. Lancaster driveways can be everything from narrow stone lanes to long blacktops, so we want to know what we’re working with. We plan the safest, most accessible drop point—usually the driveway if it’s got enough room and a good surface.

Step 2: We Always Talk It Through First

When our logistics technician shows up, the first thing they do is check in with you. You get to decide the best location for the container, and if there’s any concern about your driveway or landscaping, we adjust the plan. Communication comes before convenience, always.

Step 3: The Secret to Driveway-Friendly Dumpsters — Wooden Boards

All the dumpsters we deliver sit on sturdy 2×6 boards. These boards act like a protective buffer, keeping the steel rails from pressing directly into your driveway or yard. It’s a small step that saves big headaches later.

One of our delivery pros, Tyler, goes even further. He’ll lay a second board in front of the first, so the container rolls on wood the entire way down—never touching your driveway. It’s a small extra move that makes a huge difference.

Step 4: Precision Drop-Offs, Every Time

Once we’re set up, we take it slow. Our team uses mirrors, cameras, and a lot of practice to make sure every inch of the container stays balanced on those boards. It’s a careful, practiced routine that prevents scrapes, cracks, and any kind of shifting.

If a driveway isn’t the right fit, we’ll find a nearby safe spot—like a level section along the curb or side street—so your project can move forward without any property damage.

Why Lancaster Homeowners Trust Joyland

From roofing jobs in Manheim to full-home clean outs in Lebanon, our goal is simple: deliver your dumpster without leaving a trace. We train our team to treat every property with the same care they’d want for their own homes.

It’s not just about dropping off a container—it’s about showing up like a neighbor would.

Because when you’re cleaning up, renovating, or replacing a roof, you shouldn’t have to worry about your driveway taking the hit.

The post Will a Dumpster Damage My Driveway? Here’s How We Protect Lancaster County Homes appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

1. Chimney Caps Keep Birds, Bats, and Squirrels Out of Your Home

We get calls from homeowners who hear scratching or fluttering sounds in their chimneys. Most of the time, it’s a bird or squirrel who decided their flue looked like a cozy apartment. Once they’re in there, it’s a mess — nests block airflow, and sometimes they end up inside the living room!

A simple chimney cap with mesh sides solves that problem. It keeps birds and rodents out while letting your fireplace breathe normally. If you want to stop critters from crashing your next movie night, this is your first line of defense.

2. Protect Your Roof and Chimney from Rain Damage

Now it’s true, the amount of water raining straight down your chimney flue is negligible. So it’s not like we’re changing the world by putting a chimney cap on. But consider this:
Here in Pennsylvania, we see a lot of rain — and without a chimney cap, that water goes straight down the flue. Over time, it can mix with creosote (that black sticky residue from wood fires) and cause corrosion or decay inside the chimney. Eventually, it can leak into your home.

A stainless-steel or powder-coated chimney cap sheds that rain and keeps your chimney dry year-round. It’s one of those small upgrades that prevents a whole list of expensive repairs later.

3. A Chimney Cap Helps Prevent Roof Fires

If you have a wood roof – like cedar shake or wood shingles – a chimney cap isn’t just a nice idea; it’s a safety feature.
When you burn wood, the lightweight embers shoot up the flue. Without a cap, they can land on your roof and start a fire.
That’s why we always recommend a chimney cap with a spark arrester for wood-burning fireplaces. It traps the sparks before they ever touch your roof.

Gas fireplaces don’t send sparks up the chimney, but for wood-burning setups, this small bit of metal can make a huge difference in protecting your roof and your peace of mind.

How Much Does a Chimney Cap Installation Cost in Central PA?

It’s really the only downside to chimney caps — the cost. A good setup, installed properly, usually runs between $450 and $600, depending on the material and your chimney’s size. You’ll pay a bit more for stainless steel or powder-coated finishes, but they won’t rust or streak down your chimney over time like a simple painted steel will.

In other words, you pay once and don’t have to think about it again. No constant maintenance, no replacing it every few years, just reliable protection.

What’s the difference between a Chimney Cap and a Shroud?

A Chimney Cap fastens onto and covers only the chimney flue, whereas a chimney shroud covers the entire top, or crown, of the chimney.

Whether you go with a chimney cap or a shroud doesn’t really make much of a difference in the points we’ve been discussing here, both do the job equally well.

Now if you’ve got a stately chimney that you’d like to dress up and really show it off, there are definitely options for that. A decorative chimney shroud like these over at K&M Sheetmetal can really make a difference.

Why Joyland Roofing Recommends Chimney Caps for Homeowners

Here’s how we look at it: chimney caps aren’t mandatory, but they’re smart. They keep out the wildlife, protect against rain and corrosion, and prevent sparks from doing damage or even causing a fire. Plus, they just look clean and finished — like the last puzzle piece your roof was waiting for.

Frequently Asked Questions About Chimney Caps

Do I really need a chimney cap?
Technically, no — plenty of chimneys survive without them. But if you like keeping water, critters, and sparks out of your home, a chimney cap is a cheap insurance policy. It’s one of those upgrades you only notice when you don’t have it.

What kind of chimney cap should I get?
Go with stainless steel or powder-coated metal. They hold up to Lancaster, Pennsylvania weather and won’t rust or leave ugly streaks down your chimney. If you burn wood, make sure it has a built-in spark arrester — that’s the mesh that traps embers before they hit your roof.

How much does a chimney cap cost around Lancaster County?
Most homeowners spend between $500 and $600 total for materials and installation. The exact price depends on your chimney size and the type of finish you pick. Stainless steel costs a bit more but lasts longer — you pay once and forget about it.

Will a chimney cap affect how my fireplace works?
Not at all. A properly fitted chimney cap still lets your flue breathe, so smoke and gases escape just like normal. What it does stop is rain, debris, and wildlife from coming back the other way.

Can Joyland Roofing install a chimney cap for me?
Absolutely. We install chimney caps all over Lancaster, Harrisburg, Lebanon, Carlisle, and Mechanicsburg. We’ll check your chimney, recommend the right style, and install it cleanly so it blends with your roof. You can call 717-459-3499 or visit joylandroofing.com to schedule a quick inspection.

What happens if I don’t install one?
Nothing dramatic right away — but over time, expect water stains, rust, chimney decay, or the occasional squirrel deciding to move in rent-free. A chimney cap just saves you from all that nonsense.

Conclusion

At Joyland Roofing, we help homeowners across Lancaster, Harrisburg, Lebanon, Carlisle, and Mechanicsburg install chimney caps that fit perfectly and look great. We’ll inspect your roof, check your chimney’s condition, and help you choose the right cap — stainless, powder-coated, or spark arresting — so you can feel confident it’ll last for years.

Because at the end of the day, we’re not here to sell you things you don’t need. We’re here to make your home safer, sturdier, and a little less interesting to the local wildlife.

The post Should You Install a Chimney Cap on Your Chimney in Lancaster, PA? appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

This guide explains how roof and gutter heat cables work, the pros and cons, and which type might be best for your home. You’ll also learn why insulation is just as important as adding cables to the roofline.

Why Ice Dams Form on Roofs

Ice dams develop when warm air escapes into the attic from your living space, and heats the underside of your roof. That warmth melts snow, which in turn runs down the roof toward the eaves. The bottom part of the roof which sticks out beyond the house wall is cold (because it’s not over a temperature controled area), so when the water hits that lower edge, it refreezes and you get layers of ice building up at the gutters.

The result can be heavy icicles, clogged downspouts, and even roof damage. The first step in prevention is proper attic insulation and ventilation. A well-insulated attic should stay close to the outside temperature, reducing uneven melting and runoff.

A problem with ice dams at the bottom edges of your roof are an indicator that you’re losing heat up through the attic space. So the first thing to consider is adding insulation in your ceiling. By adding insulation on the attic floor, you can drastically reduce the heat loss, which will both lower your energy bill AND keep those ice dams from building up on the roof.

How Heat Cables Work

A roof de-icing cable runs in a zigzag pattern along the lower portion of the roof and inside gutters. These cables gently warm the surface, creating small channels in the ice so water can drain safely through the gutter system.

For best results:

• Install them on both the roof edge and in the gutters. If you only install them on the roof and not in the gutters, you’ll simply be creating an ice-dam problem in the gutters as the ice melts from the roof and then hits the cold gutter.

• Extend the line into the downspouts to prevent refreezing and clogging them.

• Turn the heat cables on before a heavy snowfall or sleet. If you wait until ice dams form, the heat cables may not be able to adequately melt the ice away.

While they don’t melt all snow or ice, gutter heating systems provide pathways for drainage and reduce the risk of backups.

Constant Wattage vs. Self-Regulating Heat Cables

There are two main types of roof heat cable products. Choosing the right one makes a big difference in performance and efficiency.

• Constant wattage: Runs at one fixed temperature when plugged in. Affordable and widely available, but less efficient. It can work in temperatures down to 25 degress Fahrenheit, but much lower than that and they won’t be able to keep up.

• Self-regulating: Adjusts heat output based on outside temperature. More expensive and uses more energy, but better for harsh, cold winters with temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

Limitations of Heat Cables

Even with the best setup, heat cables aren’t a complete solution. Here’s what to know:

• They won’t melt an entire sheet of ice.

• Running them for long periods can increase electricity costs.

• In very cold weather (below 20–25°F), they may only carve narrow channels instead of clearing ice completely.

Because of this, improving attic insulation and ventilation is just as important. When less heat escapes into your attic, you get less snowmelt refreezing at the roof’s edge—and less reliance on de-icing systems.

Why Ice and Water Shield Matters

When replacing a roof, an ice and water shield underlayment is critical. This waterproof barrier prevents leaks if dams form, protecting your home from water damage. Combined with good insulation and roof de-icing cables, it provides strong defense against winter weather.

Frequently Asked Questions About Heat Cables

Q: Do heat cables really work for preventing ice dams?
Depends. If turned on early, they can prevent ice dams. At a minimum, they create drainage channels through ice so water can flow into the gutters and downspouts. They’re not perfect but reduce damage risks, especially with proper insulation.

Q: Should they go on the roof or just in gutters?
Both. Installing them only on the roof shifts the problem to the gutters. For best results, place heating lines along the roof edge and inside gutters.

Q: What’s the difference between constant wattage and self-regulating products?
Constant wattage models run at one steady temperature. Self-regulating versions adjust heat output as the temperature changes, making them safer and more efficient.

Q: Will running them raise my electric bill?
Yes, continuous use can add cost. You’re not doing this to decrease electric, but to save your roof and gutters. However, monitor effectiveness and turn them off as soon as the problem dissipates.

Q: Can roof heating cables damage shingles or gutters?
When installed correctly, no. They don’t get hot enough to cause harm.

Q: Are they a permanent fix?
Not really. They help manage ice dams but don’t stop the root problem: Heat escaping from the attic. Improving insulation and ventilation remains the best long-term solution.

Final Thoughts

So, are heat cables worth it? Yes—when installed and used properly. They won’t clear all ice, but they can limit damage and keep water moving. For colder climates, self-regulating systems perform best. Still, true prevention begins in the attic, not just along the gutters.

The post Winter Heat Cables for Roofs and Gutters: Do They Work? appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Workmanship warranties vary widely between roofing contractors. Some may only last five years, while others claim “lifetime” coverage. But the length alone doesn’t tell the whole story. What matters is what’s actually covered, what’s excluded, and how much protection you’ll really have when something goes wrong.

At Joyland Roofing, we’ve seen too many homeowners surprised by the fine print, so here are three key things to look for before signing off on a roofer’s workmanship warranty.

1. Is the Warranty Transferable?

A common clause in workmanship warranties is non-transferability. This means the warranty is only valid while you own the home. As soon as you sell it, the warranty becomes void, leaving the new homeowner with no coverage.

That might sound fine if you plan to stay forever — but transferable warranties can add real value when selling your home. At Joyland Roofing, our workmanship warranty covers the building, not the owner, which means our 10-year workmanship coverage continues even if you sell your house during that period.

2. What Does the Warranty Actually Cover?

Not all warranties are created equal. Some roofing companies will only fix the shingles or roof surface itself if a problem occurs. That means if a leak damages your drywall, insulation, or paint, you’re on the hook for those repairs.

Instead, look for a roofer that covers both roof repairs and interior damage. That way, if a workmanship issue causes a leak, you won’t be left paying out-of-pocket to restore your home. A warranty is only valuable if it gives you peace of mind that the whole problem will be resolved, not just patched up at the surface.

3. Watch for Hidden Exclusions and Exceptions

This is one of the sneakiest pitfalls. Some warranties include requirements like mandatory annual inspections by the same contractor — and if you skip a year, the warranty becomes void. Others may have long lists of exclusions that drastically reduce what’s actually covered.

The truth is: the more exclusions and exceptions there are, the less valuable the warranty is. A 30-year warranty with 20 loopholes is worth less than a simple 10-year warranty with straightforward coverage.

Roofing Workmanship Warranty Comparison

Here’s a quick side-by-side look at how warranties often compare and how Joyland Roofing approaches coverage:

The comparison above shows the key differences between common roofing workmanship warranties and what Joyland Roofing provides. While many roofers limit coverage to short terms, exclude interior damage, or void the warranty when a home is sold, Joyland Roofing offers stronger protections. Our warranty is transferable within 10 years, includes interior damage coverage, minimizes exclusions, and is backed by GAF Master Elite certification for extended warranty options.

Frequently Asked Questions About Roof Workmanship Warranties

What is a roofing workmanship warranty?
A workmanship warranty covers installation errors made by the roofing contractor. If something was done incorrectly and causes leaks or damage, the warranty ensures the roofer will repair it at no extra cost.

How long should a roofer’s workmanship warranty last?
Workmanship warranties can range from 5 years to “lifetime,” but the length isn’t the only factor. Coverage details, exclusions, and transferability often matter more than the number of years.

What does a good workmanship warranty include?
A strong warranty should cover both roof repairs and any interior damage caused by leaks, be transferable if you sell your home, and avoid loopholes like mandatory annual inspections.

Are roofing warranties transferable when I sell my house?
Not always. Many roofers void the warranty once the home changes ownership. Look for a warranty that follows the building, not just the owner — this adds real value when selling.

Why does manufacturer certification matter for warranties?
Roofing contractors certified by manufacturers like GAF can offer extended workmanship warranties — often 25 to 30 years — in addition to their own company coverage.

Bonus: Contractor Certifications Matter

Another layer of protection comes from the roofer’s certifications. Many roofing manufacturers, like GAF, only allow certified contractors to offer extended workmanship warranties.

For example, as a GAF Master Elite Contractor, Joyland Roofing can provide not only our own 10-year workmanship warranty but also GAF’s extended workmanship warranties — lasting 25 to 30 years depending on the materials installed. This extra coverage is only available through certified contractors, making it an important factor to consider when choosing who installs your roof.

Joyland’s Residential Workmanship Warranty
We stand behind our work. Every Joyland roof comes with a 10-year workmanship warranty (or 25 years with a GAF Golden Pledge roof).
If your roof leaks due to faulty workmanship during this time, we’ll repair it at no cost. This warranty is transferable if you sell your home.

📄 Download Our Full Warranty

Final Thoughts

When evaluating a roofer’s workmanship warranty, don’t stop at the length of coverage. Instead, focus on these three critical questions:

• Is it transferable if you sell your home?

• Does it cover both the roof and interior damage?

• How many exceptions or exclusions are hidden in the fine print?

A solid workmanship warranty is about more than years on paper — it’s about real protection for your home. At Joyland Roofing, we back our work with a 10-year workmanship warranty—one of the strongest in the industry. If you’re comparing roofers, start with the warranty. We’ll gladly walk you through ours.

The post 3 Things to Look for in a Roofer’s Workmanship Warranty appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Your roof shields your family and belongings from wind, rain, snow, and falling debris. Over time, this constant exposure causes wear and tear. Knowing when to repair and when to replace can save you money—and keep your home safe.

What Are the Signs Your Roof Has a Problem?

Many homeowners only notice issues when it’s too late. Regular inspections are the best way to catch problems early. Common warning signs include:

• Sagging roof sections

• Water stains on ceilings or attic wood

• Clogged gutters full of shingle granules

• Missing, curled, or cracked shingles

• Rotting wood along the roof deck

• Nail pops or exposed fasteners

• Moss, algae, or black streaks

If you live in Lancaster County, Dauphin County, or Lebanon County, spotting these problems early can help reduce costs and prevent emergencies.

What Should You Consider Before Deciding?

Age of the Roof

Most asphalt shingle roofs last 25–40 years, depending on materials and installation. In areas like York and Mechanicsburg, many homes have older roofs nearing that limit. If your roof is 25+ years old and has weathered countless storms, replacement is usually the smarter option.

Budget

Repairs are cheaper upfront, but frequent fixes can quickly exceed the cost of a new roof. For example, a minor leak repair may cost $500–$1,000, while larger repairs can approach 40% of a full replacement. Homeowners in Reading and Carlisle often find that investing in a replacement saves money long-term.

Extent of Damage

If just one section is affected, a repair may be enough. But if there’s widespread damage—such as multiple leaks, rot, or mold—it’s safer to replace the entire roof.

Urgency

Storm season in Harrisburg and Lancaster can force urgent decisions. Emergency repairs may be necessary to stop active leaks, but a full replacement should follow if the roof is near the end of its lifespan.

Your Future Plans

If you plan to stay in your home for many years, replacement is a better investment. If you’re selling soon, even buyers in Lebanon or York are more attracted to homes with newer roofs, often recovering 60–80% of the replacement cost at resale.

Roofing Material

Slate and synthetic materials may allow for easier individual repairs, while older asphalt shingles often require full replacement.

FAQs About Roof Repair vs. Replacement

How long does a typical roof last?
Most asphalt shingle roofs last 25–40 years, depending on installation quality and weather conditions.

Is it better to repair or replace my roof after storm damage?
It depends on the extent of damage. Small, isolated issues may be repaired, but widespread leaks or old shingles usually mean replacement is best.

Does a new roof increase home value?
Yes. A new roof improves curb appeal and resale value, often recouping 60%–80% of the cost when you sell your home in areas like Lancaster, Harrisburg, or York.

Decide and Get the Right Help

Roof repairs and replacements are major investments, but they protect your most valuable asset—your home. If you live in Lancaster, Harrisburg, York, Lebanon, Carlisle, Mechanicsburg, or Reading, Joyland Roofing can inspect your roof and give you expert guidance on whether to repair or replace.

Contact us today for a professional, no-pressure consultation and keep your home protected for years to come.

The post Should I Repair or Replace My Roof? A Homeowner’s Guide appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Before you sign a contract for a roof replacement or repair, here are the top five mistakes I see roofing contractors make and how you can protect yourself.

1. Roofers Not Carrying Workers’ Compensation Insurance

Roofing is one of the most dangerous jobs in construction. Falls happen — and unfortunately, I’ve known roofers who’ve been severely injured and even lost their lives on the job. Many roofers view fall protection measures such as harnesses, ropes, and cables as an inhibitor to getting the work done. This results in loose safety practices on the job, which in turn often results in workplace fall-related injuries.

When a contractor doesn’t carry workers’ compensation insurance, their employees are financally vulnerable. Even worse, if an accident happens on a customer’s property, that customer could be held liable in the absence of proper contractor insurance. That means potential lawsuits and unexpected costs that should never fall on a homeowner’s shoulders.

How to protect yourself: Always ask to see proof of valid, up-to-date workers’ compensation coverage before signing a contract. If they can’t provide it, walk away.

2. Poor Crew Supervision at Roofing Jobs

In many states, including Pennsylvania, roofing companies often employ subcontracted crews who work on behalf of the company. While these crews may be skilled and experienced, lack of supervision can lead to quality control issues.

Without consistent oversight, corners can be cut, details missed, and small mistakes can snowball into big problems. Yes, I’ve learned this the hard way. I am very grateful to have crews working at Joyland who’ve been here for years. They understand our processes and consistently deliver good results. However, I still rely on my project managers to set up the job, run frequent quality-control inspections, and make sure that the final product meets our standards of leak-free excellence for the long haul.

How to protect yourself: Ask your roofer how often they’re on-site, who will oversee the crew, and how they ensure quality from start to finish. Listen for references to specific things like, “The project manager uses our checklist which looks like this…” or, ask them for stories of how they’ve corrected quality issues in the past. BE SURE to get the fine print on whatever workmanship warranty they offer, and compare it with others.

3. Roofers Offering “Too Good to Be True” Discounts

Beware of contractors who suddenly slash their price by thousands of dollars just to get you to sign “today”. Big “one-day-only” discounts are almost always a sales tactic — not a genuine savings.

In reality, contractors who offer steep discounts are actually inflating their prices so they can make a dramatic cut and still make a profit. If the price drops drastically in one conversation, that’s a red flag about their transparency. What if you would have signed up without the discount?

How to protect yourself: Never buckle to pressure to sign on the spot. Get at least two or three roofing quotes before making a decision. The guys who usually push to be the first contractor to give you a quote, then sit there and twist your arm to get a signature – their whole sales process relies on you NOT getting other quotes to maximize the chance of getting your business at a very high rate.

4. Roofers Pushing Only One Brand of Shingle or Product

Some roofers stick to one shingle brand like it’s the only option in the world. But just like power tools — where DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Makita each have their moments to shine — roofing materials vary in quality and innovation over time.

A contractor who preaches one single brand might not be offering the best solution for your home’s unique needs. A roofer should be knowledgeable with all major brands and materials. Doesn’t mean he has to sell them all, but it’s important to understands the pros and cons of each as a roofer. This helps them offer you what is truly the best solution for your home.

How to protect yourself: Look for a roofer who evaluates multiple roofing products and recommends what’s best for your home’s specific conditions. If it sounds like a roofer is just “giving you the spiel” – he probably is. Ask for specifics like product warranty information, use-case stories, and their history with a given brand.

5. Confusing Communication

Clear communication is one of the most underrated aspects of a good roofing project. Without it, homeowners can end up surprised by extra charges, unexpected delays, or misunderstandings about the work being done.

If a contractor can’t explain their process, timeline, and scope of work in detail before the roofing project starts, chances are communication will only get worse once the job is underway.

How to protect yourself: Pay attention to how responsive and clear a roofer is during the estimating process. If communication is sloppy early on, it’s a sign to reconsider. Things are unlikely to get any better as the job progresses. A roof replacement comes with it’s own inherent set of possible surprises and changes, so look for strong communication vibes right from the start. Consider:
– How fast did they respond to your request for help?
– Do they answer the phone consistently?
– Are you getting prompt and clear answers to your emails and texts?
– How long does it take to get a quote?
– Do you know the process? Do you know what’s happening, and when?

Final Thoughts

Your roof is one of the most important investments in your home — and choosing the wrong contractor can cost you time, money, and peace of mind. By watching out for these five mistakes, you’ll be better equipped to hire a roofer who delivers quality, safety, and transparency.

If you’re unsure about a quote or offer you’ve received, I’m happy to answer questions — no obligation. A quick phone call or email could save you from a costly mistake and help you get the roof your home truly deserves.

The post 5 Common Mistakes Roofing Contractors Make and How to Avoid Them appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

If you’re wondering whether to go with Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) or Thermoplastic Polyolefin (TPO) for your commercial flat roof, you’re in the right place. Both have been around for a while, and both have their pros and cons. So how do you know which one to choose? Let’s break it down.

Energy Efficiency

One of the biggest factors to consider between EPDM and TPO roofing is energy efficiency.

If you’re in the southern U.S. or any area with a lot of cooling days or days when you need the building to stay cool when its hot outside, the white reflective surface of a TPO roof helps keep heat out of the building, reducing strain on your air conditioning.

But if you’re up north, say upper Minnesota or Canada where you might have more heating days, meaning you’re trying to keep the building warm most of the time, a black EPDM roof might be the better choice. It absorbs the sun’s heat, helping to keep the building warmer in the colder months.

Longevity and Maintenance

Both TPO and EPDM roofing systems can come with warranties up to 30 years. But the long-term maintenance looks a little different for each.

EPDM (Rubber Roofs):
EPDM roofs rely on seam tape to join pieces together and flashing adhesives around roof penetrations like pipes and curbs. Over time—especially if not installed perfectly—these tapes can begin to lift, peel, or bridge at corners. You may start needing maintenance like caulking around year 10. It’s not unusual for these systems to be solid for a decade before any work is needed, but maintenance will come eventually.

Now while the seams and penetrations tend to wear out over time on an EPDM roof, they are super easy to patch and repair with new flashing when needed.

Rubber roofs have been a mainstay for low-slope or flat roof commercial buildings for 50 years or more. They work if they’re maintained. For a 5,000 square foot rubber roof, I’d expect to spend $500-$1000 a year to keep it in good shape. And that is money well spent because you can literally increase the roof’s lifespan by 50% or more if it’s maintained.

TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin):
TPO systems are heat-welded using robotic welders. The plastic-based material fuses together at the seams, creating a strong, single-piece membrane. When done properly, these welds won’t peel or break down like tape can. This makes TPO virtually maintenance-free for many years.

Flexibility and Expansion

Because it’s black and rubber-based, EPDM expands and contracts a lot. On older EPDM roofs, you might see bridging, where the membrane pulls away from corners or even pulls on the drip edge over time, causing it to pull away from the edge of the roof. This can cause serious water leak problems if not addressed.

TPO, on the other hand, contains a scrim—a reinforcing layer of thread that adds structure and stability. It holds its shape and doesn’t shift much over time. That means less movement, less stress on edges, and fewer long-term issues.

My Take: Which One Would I Pick?

If I had to choose a roofing system for a commercial flat or low-slope roof, I’d go with TPO.

EPDM is a solid, proven product. It’s been around longer and it works well in the right situations. But TPO has also proven itself over decades. It’s clean, easy to install, holds up well, and requires less maintenance.

Plus, TPO’s reflective surface is a big benefit here in Pennsylvania—where summers get hot, and in turn energy bills

That said, EPDM has its place, especially for small residential projects where flexibility and ease of installation are key. If you’re doing a small flat roof section on a home, EPDM might be the better fit.

The post EPDM vs TPO Roofing: Expert Roofer’s Honest Take appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

I finally took the time here to sit down and really drill down on everything you need to know about cedar roofing from a customer perspective. What’s important, what’s not, and why it matters.

Cedar wood shingles and shakes offer a unique blend of natural beauty, durability, and character. I think they’re especially nice on a stone building. Other things that you definitely should consider when putting on cedar shingles or shakes are half-round gutters and copper flashing. Half-round gutters really add to the old-world look of a stone building, and copper roof flashing should almost be mandatory when using cedar or slate, in my opinion! Technically not a must-have, it’s more just a matter of looks and character. But suit your own taste!

Ok, so let’s get into it! Here’s what I’ll cover:

1. Cedar Roofing types
2. Cedar shingle/shake grades and grading standards
3. Pros and Cons of cedar roofing
4. Longevity and performance of cedar roofing
5. Installation considerations
6. Cedar roof Maintenance

1. Types of Cedar Roofing

Cedar Shingles

• Definition: Machine-sawn on both sides, giving a smooth, uniform look.

• Thickness: Commonly 1/2″ or 5/8″. I would not use 1/2″ on my house because the thinner shingle is more susceptible to warping and cupping over time. See more on this below.

• Best Use: Homeowners seeking a neat, crisp aesthetic with a bit more of a uniform look on the roof.

You may hear the terms “Royals” or “Perfections” which simply refers to the total length of the shingle. Royals are 24″ long which allows for a larger face/exposure, and Perfections are 18″ long. Typically on Perfections, you can have an exposure of 5 to 7 inches, whereas with Royals you can bump that up to 10 or 11 inches of exposure for a bolder look.

Hand-Split Shakes

• Definition: Split by hand, thicker and more textured with “deep groove” grain on the face.

• Look: Rustic, irregular, with a lot of shadow and visual depth.

• Best Use: Where natural, artisan character is wanted. It’s more of a uniquely rustic look than the Sawn shingles.

Taper-Sawn Shakes

• Definition: Sawn out of a wood block, still retains some of the woodgrain look with a more uniform thickness

• Look: Rustic, but more uniform that hand-split

  

• Best Use: Where natural, artisan character is wanted but you’d like to have less of that deep woodgrain look.

Both Shakes and Shingles come in bundles where the pieces vary in width from about 3″ wide to 12″ or 14″ wide.

Here’s a quick and easy table to show the differences between these two styles.

Shingle vs. Shake: Key Differences

2. Cedar Grades & Grading Standards

Cedar roofs are graded by visual clarity, wood type, and structural integrity.

The grade of the cedar you get will greatly determine how long they last on your roof or walls. While lower grades certainly are cheaper, there’s good reason for it and you need to be aware of the risks that come with that lower cost.

Western Red Cedar Grades

• Premium/Clear (#1/Blue Label):

  • 100% heartwood, 100% edge grain, free from defects.
    Heartwood is the inner part of the tree with the most stable and hardest wood. Shingles cut from this are straight and hardy.

  • Most resistant to decay, warping, and cupping.

  • Highest longevity and best appearance.

This is the best cedar shingle you can get. They’re literally hand-graded by a real person to make sure that each shingle is about a 3/4″ wide at the butt end. Only shingles with zero defects like knots and curving grain or sapwood make the cut. These shingles can last 40+ years without warping and cupping like the lower grade shingles would. The entire shingle from top to bottom is clear, straight edge-grain heartwood.

Selects (#2/Red Label):

• • Near-premium, may include some imperfections.

  • Still highly durable and recommended for roofing applications.

The Selects will come with about an 80/20 mix of straight-grain/commons. They have some knots and defects on the upper part of the shingle, but the face/exposure part of the shingle is still clear wood and mostly straight grain. These will be more susceptible to warping or cupping over time on the shingles that are not straight-grained, or come from the sapwood.

Sapwood is the outer parts of the tree trunk where the wood is younger than the heartwood, and therefore isn’t quite a stable. It also tends to include more defects.

• Commons (#3/Black label):

  

  • Include sapwood, knots, and flat-grain wood with defects.

  • Less durable, much more prone to failure and not recommended for roofs.

This is the lowest grade of cedar shingle. I would honestly not recommend these because they will not last nearly as long as #1 or #2 grade shingles, and they will almost certainly warp and cup over time. You can think of these as kind of being made out of the leftovers of the tree, once all the really good wood is gone. 

You could consider using Commons in a siding application, but I’d stay away from them on the roof.

3. Pros & Cons of Cedar Roofing

Pros

• Visual Appeal: Unparalleled, natural, and warm aesthetic—ideal for historic homes as well as design-forward new builds.

• Durability: With premium grades and maintenance, cedar roofs can last 40-50 years.

• Energy Efficiency: Cedar roofs insulate up to 2x better than asphalt, reducing heat/cold transfer and energy bills.

• Eco-Conscious: Renewable resource, low embedded energy to produce, and biodegradable. Sustainable harvesting practices are typical.

• Weather Resistance: Good in storms, hail, wind—even hurricanes.

• Resale Value: Curb appeal and reputation for quality increases home value.

• Termite & Rot Resistance: High, especially in Western Red Cedar heartwood.

Cons

• Upfront Cost: 3–5x the cost of asphalt or synthetic alternatives.

• Maintenance Demand: In shaded areas, they will require cleaning from time to time.

• Variability: Quality varies greatly by grade (low-grade roofs may fail prematurely).

• Flammability: Untreated cedar is not fireproof; fire-retardant treatments or specific fire-rated products required in sensitive areas.

• Color Change: Loss of contrasting wood tones after weathering.

• Installation Complexity: Must be professionally installed for performance and warranty compliance.

4. Longevity and Performance

• Expected Lifespan:

  • Western Red Cedar: 15-20 years for lower grades. Premium grade up to 50 years.

  • Eastern White Cedar: Slightly less durable, but still long-lasting with proper care.

• What Affects Lifespan?

  • Grade and type of cedar (Clear heartwood = longer life).

  • Warping, splitting, and cupping of lower grades will cause system failure.

  • Quality of installation—ventilation, nailing, exposure settings, correct underlayment use, keyway settings.

  • Local climate: Moisture, harsh sun, or extreme cold can reduce service life.

  • Maintenance: Proper care (see tips below) extends life substantially.

• Weather Resistance:

  • Naturally resistant to insects, termites, UV, hail, and wind.

  • Regular maintenance is required to prevent moss, algae, and weathering.

• Coloring: Western Red Cedar shows significant color variation—reds and browns, where as White cedar comes with a yellower coloring.

• Weathering: Within 6–12 months, roof begins to ‘silver’ or brown over, becoming more uniform and muted, regardless of the wood type.

Installation

Regardless of the grade chosen, cedar shingles or shakes need to be installed correctly to last. I won’t go into all the details here, but the most important factors to get right are:

• Ventilation: Wood which bakes in the sun day after day will split and fail unless it’s allowed to “breathe” effectively. How the shingles are vented varies based on the type of roof deck they are installed on. If they are installed on a solid wood deck like plywood, they need to have a mesh-style “shingle breather” installed under them so that airflow under the shingles can keep them from deteriorating prematurely.

• Underlayment and Keyways: Underlayment should typically be installed over every row of shingles or shakes. This is to prevent water from penetrating the roof in the case that one would split or crack. A Keyway is the vertical space between each shingle. This needs to be monitored as the shingles are installed – you don’t want two keyways aligned within 3 rows of shingles, so the installer must be vigilant by using differing shingle/shake widths to eliminate this risk.

• Fasteners: Use the wrong fasteners with cedar wood, and they can corrode and rust off. Make sure to use stainless steel, ring-shanked nails when installing cedar roofing.
• Copper Ridge Caps and Zinc Strips: This one is not a must, but consider it. Using copper for caps/ridge lines can reduce moss/lichen growth and adds distinctive beauty. The copper oxidizes in the rain, and this chemical release actually kills off the organic growth on the shingles, keeping them much cleaner and in some cases, free of moss and algae. The same thing is true if you use Zinc Strips.
  But beware – neither of these things will keep the entire roof moss-free. This only works for maybe 5-7 feet down the roof from the copper or zinc. Any further and this oxidization effect wears out the further it goes from the source.

Maintenance Tips

• Inspect Biannually: Look for cracked, warped, or missing shakes/shingles.

• Clear Debris: Remove leaves, branches, and moss—do NOT pressure wash as this will damage the integrity and longevity of the wood. Some roofing companies provide roof cleaning services. Locally, you can go to Atkins Deck Treatment – I know the owner Rick personally, and he does the job right, with the right kinds of washing solutions.

• Trim Nearby Trees: Prevent debris, promote airflow.

• Seal & Preserve: Apply protective stains/sealants – this is not necessary, but if you want to keep the new look of the shingle (the reddish and brown colors), then you will need to seal them.

• Replace Individual Pieces: Spot-replace damaged areas to prevent leaks.

Choosing the Right Cedar Roof: Pro Tips

• Thicker = Better: 5/8in+ thickness resists cupping/warping, lasts longer.

• Always Use Premium/Clear or Grade 1: Avoid Grades 2 and 3, which are more susceptible to early failure and decay.

• Consider Copper Accessories: For added moss resistance and roof longevity.

• Ask for Documentation: Certi-label, source origin, and fire rating if required by code.

• Expert Installation: Make sure the contractor you choose has real-world experience. I would go so far as to ask for a few houses where they’ve installed cedar, ask for the date of installation, and go take a look to see how the roof looks (the older, the better for this one).

Fire Safety

• Standard cedar is combustible, but pressure-impregnated fire-retardant shakes/shingles meet rigorous code requirements and pass UL 790 or ASTM E108 fire tests.

• Some building codes require only fire-rated cedar roofing products—check local regulations.

• Certi-Guard shingles and shakes are available – these have been pressure-impregnated with fire-resistant polymers to reduce the flamability of the cedar wood.

Conclusion

There you have it – pretty much all I know about cedar roofing. It’s an incredible roofing material, looks awesome on the right building. If you take my points above into consideration, and go with a premium grade product that’s correctly installed, you can enjoy the ooohs and aaaahs from your friends for years to come, leak-free and worry-free.

Ready to do this? Contact my company and we’ll help you do it right!

The post All About Cedar Wood Shakes and Shingles: What You Need to Know appeared first on Joyland Roofing.