The short answer? It depends — especially in Lancaster County, where each township plays by different rules. Lancaster City’s requirements are not the same as Manheim Township, Upper Leacock, or Millersville. So let’s make this simple and walk through what’s actually required for each type of exterior project

Gutter Replacements

Most homeowners in Lancaster County will not need a permit for a gutter replacement. About 95 to 99 percent of the time, you can replace gutters freely. The main exception is if you live in a historic district, such as Lancaster City’s Historic District. In that case, a permit is almost always required, no matter how small the change.

Typical cost if required: $50–$100

Siding Replacements

If your siding project doesn’t involve any structural changes, you likely won’t need a permit. Townships like Manheim and Millersville typically allow “like-for-like” replacements — swapping one style or color for another. But if your siding work involves structural adjustments or sheathing replacement, plan on getting a permit before work begins.

Typical cost if required: $50–$150

Window Replacements

Here’s the rule of thumb: if you’re replacing windows that are the same size and fit in the same opening, no permit is needed. But if you’re expanding the size of the opening, cutting a new window into a wall, or modifying the structure of the frame, then yes — a permit will be required.

Typical cost if required: $50–$150

Door Replacements

Replacing a front or back door in the same opening? No permit required. But if you’re changing the size of the doorway, adding sidelights, or installing a transom above the door, those are structural changes — and that means a permit.

Typical cost if required: $50–$150

Historic Districts in Lancaster County

If your home is located in a historic district, assume that any exterior modification will need a permit. This includes gutters, siding, windows, and doors. Historic properties are regulated to preserve architectural character, so even minor updates usually need approval.

Quick Reference Chart

How to Confirm Permit Requirements

Your contractor should check permit requirements with your municipality before beginning any work. At Joyland Roofing & Exteriors, we help homeowners confirm the correct process or can handle the permitting for you.

If you’d like to check yourself, most townships make it simple — just call the local zoning or building office. A two-minute phone call can save you a fine or delay later on.

The Bottom Line

Most Pennsylvania homeowners won’t need a permit for straightforward, like-for-like replacements. But when you’re making structural changes or working on a historic property, you almost always will.

When in doubt, confirm with your township before starting your project. Or let the team at Joyland Roofing & Exteriors take care of the details so you can focus on the fun part — making your home look great.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do all Pennsylvania homeowners need permits for exterior work?
No. Most replacements that don’t involve structural changes don’t require a permit, but always check with your township to be safe.

How much do home improvement permits cost in Lancaster County?
Usually between $50 and $150, depending on the type of project and municipality.

Are historic districts stricter with permits?
Yes. If your home is in a designated historic district, permits are required for nearly all exterior modifications.

Can my contractor handle the permit for me?
Yes. Joyland Roofing & Exteriors regularly helps homeowners secure permits or verify whether one is needed.

What happens if I skip a required permit?
You could face fines, project delays, or problems when selling your home later. It’s always better to check first.

The post Do You Need a Permit for Exterior Work in Pennsylvania? Here’s What Lancaster County Requires appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

The Real Insulation Value of Insulated Vinyl Siding

The best insulated vinyl siding options on the market have an R-value (that’s the measure of insulation) between R-2 and R-3. For perspective, Pennsylvania’s building codes require R-30 in ceilings and R-20 in walls. So yes, that little bump from the siding helps—but only a little.

If your goal is to lower heating bills, the numbers probably won’t add up fast enough to justify the extra cost. You’re looking at an extra $2.50 to $3.50 per square foot compared to non-insulated siding. For most homes, that’s a few thousand dollars more.

For illustration, let’s say that you end up saving $50 a month on heating for four months of the year with insulated siding. That’s $200 saved annually. YAY! But on a $5,000 up-charge for materials and installation? You’ll be waiting decades to break even.

What About Fiber Cement Siding?

Fiber cement siding—like James Hardie—isn’t really about insulation. It’s about durability, style, and low maintenance. If you’re focused on reducing drafts or heating costs, fiber cement won’t make a big difference there. But if you want that solid, high-end look and fire resistance, fiber cement wins on aesthetics and longevity.

A Hidden Perk: Wider Vinyl Siding Panels Come Pre-Insulated

Here’s something most homeowners don’t realize: wider vinyl profiles often come with built-in insulation. For example, if you go from a 5-inch panel to a 6- or 7-inch one, insulation is automatically included in most profiles. That wider panel needs extra rigidity so it doesn’t flex or warp too much.

That’s actually why I went with a 6-inch profile on my own house—it gave us the wider, modern look we wanted and came pre-insulated by default. So in that case, it wasn’t about energy savings. It was about aesthetics.

Installation Notes: Trim, Flashing, and Fit

Insulated siding is thicker than non-insulated, which means your installer might need to adjust window trim, door casings, or flashing for a clean, tight fit. If your home already has tight architectural details, this can add a little complexity to the project. Nothing major, but worth planning for, and it can also contribute to higher costs for the insulated option.

Does insulated siding increase my home’s energy efficiency?
A little bit, yes—but not enough to make a major impact on your energy bills. It can slightly reduce drafts and help with comfort, but most savings come from your attic and wall insulation.

Will insulated siding make my home quieter?
It can reduce exterior noise slightly since the foam backing absorbs sound. If you live near a busy road, it might help a little. But windows are typically the big bully culprit for sound transmission, so you might want to think about upgrading your windows instead.

Can insulated siding protect my home better from hail or wind?
It adds some rigidity, but it’s not a night-and-day difference. Proper installation matters more for wind resistance than the siding type itself.

Is insulated siding a good choice for Lancaster County weather?
It can help a little with temperature swings, but Pennsylvania’s real energy loss happens more through the attic, windows, and doors. Focus your upgrades there first.

How do I know which siding type is right for me?
If you want a stylish, low-maintenance exterior, insulated vinyl or fiber cement are both great. Talk with your siding contractor about your goals—whether it’s looks, budget, or performance. Check out this post about siding material options, or this one to learn about Fiber Cement siding pricing.

Serving homeowners across From York, Carlisle and Lancaster to West Chester and Lansdale, Joyland Roofing & Exteriors helps you choose the siding that fits your style, your budget, and your home’s needs—without the sales gimmicks.

Give us a call at 717-459-3499 or fill out our contact form!

The post Is Insulated Siding Worth It for Pennsylvania Homeowners? appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

The truth is, even the best roofing companies can take an hour or two to get to you in severe weather — and in that time, a lot of water can find its way inside. That’s why knowing how to make a quick emergency roof leak repair can save you money, frustration, and damage to your home. These temporary steps aren’t a replacement for professional repairs, but they’re a reliable way to protect your house until help arrives.

In this video, John demonstrates how to temporarily patch a leaky shingle roof step by step:

Why Roof Leaks Happen in the Rain

Shingles and roofing materials are designed to shed water, not resist it standing still. Heavy rain, strong winds, or storm debris can push water into places it doesn’t belong. Sometimes shingles lift. Other times flashing comes loose, or a tree branch leaves behind a small puncture. No matter the cause, water always looks for the easiest path down — and if that path is into your living room, you’ll know it quickly.

Understanding this “water always runs down” rule is the foundation for every temporary repair.

Step 1: Find the Leak from Inside

Before climbing on the roof, start indoors. Go into your attic or crawl space and look for obvious signs of water: dripping spots, shiny wet boards, or water trails. Shine a flashlight along the rafters if needed. Locating where the water is entering on the inside makes it much easier to patch the right spot outside.

You may even see insulation that looks darker or heavy from moisture. Tracing that back usually leads to the leak point.

Step 2: Get Safely to the Roof

Set up a ladder on stable ground and have someone nearby if possible. Roofs in the rain are slippery, so only climb up if it’s safe to do so.
Pro tip: Take a bungie cord along up the ladder, and secure the ladder to the gutter so it stays in place.
Go to the spot on the roof that corresponds with where you saw the water coming in underneath, in the attic.

Look for:

• Missing or cracked shingles
• Missing or loose flashing – Wherever there’s a wall or a chimney intersecting the roof, there’s flashing.
• Pipe boots – Sometimes the rubber seal around the pipe is deteriorated, allowing water in
• Missing ridge cap shingles or ridge vent – sometimes these blow off in strong winds

Take a look at my blog post on the Most Vulnerable Parts of a Roof for more context on where to look.

Here are the steps to take if you find missing or cracked shingles:

Step 3: Slide in a Patch

Take a hammer or flat pry-bar and carefully loosen the shingle directly ABOVE the problem spot. Asphalt shingles are usually sealed with a tar strip, but they can be lifted with gentle pressure. Once it’s loose, slide a piece of flat, waterproof material under it. That could be flashing, sheet metal, or even heavy plastic in a pinch.
The important part is placement: the patch must go under the shingle above the leak so rain runs down across it, not behind it.

Think of it like siding or shingles themselves — every piece overlaps downward so water flows away.

If you have a caulking gun and caulk, or a bucket of tar, you may be able to slow the leak with this as well. The risk is that tar and caulk don’t stick well to wet surfaces, so this may not hold up for long.

Step 4: Secure the Temporary Fix

Use a couple of nails to hold your patch in place. If possible, tuck them beneath a shingle. If not, nail directly into the surface for now. This won’t cause additional leaking right away and will keep your patch steady until the weather clears and a permanent repair is made.

Step 5: Cover Bigger Storm Damage

Not every leak is a pinhole. If a tree branch punched through your roof or shingles were torn away by wind, you’ll need a larger cover. Plastic sheeting or a tarp works best. Lay it over the damaged section, making sure the top edge slides under a shingle so water runs off. Secure the bottom and sides with wood strips, nails, or heavy objects to prevent the wind from lifting it.

This type of emergency roof leak repair won’t look pretty, but it will keep gallons of rainwater from pouring into your house.

Why These Repairs Work

The whole method comes back to one principle: water runs down. Every patch or cover you add needs to overlap in that direction. If water has to “climb” to get under your repair, it usually won’t. That’s why sliding materials under shingles works — it mimics the way roofs are built in the first place.

Mistakes to Avoid During an Emergency Roof Leak Repair

• Never place a patch without putting it under what’s above. Water will run right under it if you do.

• Don’t rely on buckets alone. Buckets catch drips but don’t stop the damage spreading in your attic or walls.

• Avoid walking on steep or unsafe roofs. If conditions aren’t safe, call for emergency service and focus on protecting your home inside instead.

• Don’t treat a temporary fix as permanent. Even the best DIY patch is just a short-term solution.

When to Call the Pros

A quick patch is useful, but it’s not a long-term answer. Water can still seep under plastic or around flashing after a few hours or days. If the leak is large, the roof is unsafe, or you simply don’t have the tools, call a professional immediately.

At Joyland Roofing, we provide 24-hour emergency service across Central PA. Depending on the severity of the storm and how many calls are coming in, it may take us an hour or two to reach you. These temporary steps can keep your home protected until our crew arrives and provides a permanent repair.

FAQ

What’s the fastest way to stop a roof leak in a storm?
Loosen the shingle directly above the leak and slide flashing or plastic under it so water runs across the patch instead of through the hole.

Is it safe to fix a leak myself?
For small leaks and if you’re comfortable on the roof, there’s a good chance you can find and patch the leak. For larger damage or unsafe roofs, call a professional right away.

How long does an emergency repair last?
Usually just long enough to get you through the storm — a few hours or days at most.

Can I just cover the roof with a tarp?
Yes, for bigger damage. Just make sure the top edge is tucked under shingles so water flows off the tarp, not under it – or take it all the way up across the ridge of the house.

Do I still need a roofer if my patch holds?
Yes. DIY patches are temporary. Only a permanent repair will stop leaks for good.

Need Help with Emergency Roof Leak Repair?

If you’ve got a leak in the middle of a storm, don’t wait until the damage spreads. Call Joyland Roofing at (717) 459-3499 for reliable 24-hour service. We’ll get your roof secured and provide the permanent fix you need.

The post Emergency Roof Leak Repair: How to Stop a Leak in the Rain appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

I finally took the time here to sit down and really drill down on everything you need to know about cedar roofing from a customer perspective. What’s important, what’s not, and why it matters.

Cedar wood shingles and shakes offer a unique blend of natural beauty, durability, and character. I think they’re especially nice on a stone building. Other things that you definitely should consider when putting on cedar shingles or shakes are half-round gutters and copper flashing. Half-round gutters really add to the old-world look of a stone building, and copper roof flashing should almost be mandatory when using cedar or slate, in my opinion! Technically not a must-have, it’s more just a matter of looks and character. But suit your own taste!

Ok, so let’s get into it! Here’s what I’ll cover:

1. Cedar Roofing types
2. Cedar shingle/shake grades and grading standards
3. Pros and Cons of cedar roofing
4. Longevity and performance of cedar roofing
5. Installation considerations
6. Cedar roof Maintenance

1. Types of Cedar Roofing

Cedar Shingles

• Definition: Machine-sawn on both sides, giving a smooth, uniform look.

• Thickness: Commonly 1/2″ or 5/8″. I would not use 1/2″ on my house because the thinner shingle is more susceptible to warping and cupping over time. See more on this below.

• Best Use: Homeowners seeking a neat, crisp aesthetic with a bit more of a uniform look on the roof.

You may hear the terms “Royals” or “Perfections” which simply refers to the total length of the shingle. Royals are 24″ long which allows for a larger face/exposure, and Perfections are 18″ long. Typically on Perfections, you can have an exposure of 5 to 7 inches, whereas with Royals you can bump that up to 10 or 11 inches of exposure for a bolder look.

Hand-Split Shakes

• Definition: Split by hand, thicker and more textured with “deep groove” grain on the face.

• Look: Rustic, irregular, with a lot of shadow and visual depth.

• Best Use: Where natural, artisan character is wanted. It’s more of a uniquely rustic look than the Sawn shingles.

Taper-Sawn Shakes

• Definition: Sawn out of a wood block, still retains some of the woodgrain look with a more uniform thickness

• Look: Rustic, but more uniform that hand-split

  

• Best Use: Where natural, artisan character is wanted but you’d like to have less of that deep woodgrain look.

Both Shakes and Shingles come in bundles where the pieces vary in width from about 3″ wide to 12″ or 14″ wide.

Here’s a quick and easy table to show the differences between these two styles.

Shingle vs. Shake: Key Differences

2. Cedar Grades & Grading Standards

Cedar roofs are graded by visual clarity, wood type, and structural integrity.

The grade of the cedar you get will greatly determine how long they last on your roof or walls. While lower grades certainly are cheaper, there’s good reason for it and you need to be aware of the risks that come with that lower cost.

Western Red Cedar Grades

• Premium/Clear (#1/Blue Label):

  • 100% heartwood, 100% edge grain, free from defects.
    Heartwood is the inner part of the tree with the most stable and hardest wood. Shingles cut from this are straight and hardy.

  • Most resistant to decay, warping, and cupping.

  • Highest longevity and best appearance.

This is the best cedar shingle you can get. They’re literally hand-graded by a real person to make sure that each shingle is about a 3/4″ wide at the butt end. Only shingles with zero defects like knots and curving grain or sapwood make the cut. These shingles can last 40+ years without warping and cupping like the lower grade shingles would. The entire shingle from top to bottom is clear, straight edge-grain heartwood.

Selects (#2/Red Label):

• • Near-premium, may include some imperfections.

  • Still highly durable and recommended for roofing applications.

The Selects will come with about an 80/20 mix of straight-grain/commons. They have some knots and defects on the upper part of the shingle, but the face/exposure part of the shingle is still clear wood and mostly straight grain. These will be more susceptible to warping or cupping over time on the shingles that are not straight-grained, or come from the sapwood.

Sapwood is the outer parts of the tree trunk where the wood is younger than the heartwood, and therefore isn’t quite a stable. It also tends to include more defects.

• Commons (#3/Black label):

  

  • Include sapwood, knots, and flat-grain wood with defects.

  • Less durable, much more prone to failure and not recommended for roofs.

This is the lowest grade of cedar shingle. I would honestly not recommend these because they will not last nearly as long as #1 or #2 grade shingles, and they will almost certainly warp and cup over time. You can think of these as kind of being made out of the leftovers of the tree, once all the really good wood is gone. 

You could consider using Commons in a siding application, but I’d stay away from them on the roof.

3. Pros & Cons of Cedar Roofing

Pros

• Visual Appeal: Unparalleled, natural, and warm aesthetic—ideal for historic homes as well as design-forward new builds.

• Durability: With premium grades and maintenance, cedar roofs can last 40-50 years.

• Energy Efficiency: Cedar roofs insulate up to 2x better than asphalt, reducing heat/cold transfer and energy bills.

• Eco-Conscious: Renewable resource, low embedded energy to produce, and biodegradable. Sustainable harvesting practices are typical.

• Weather Resistance: Good in storms, hail, wind—even hurricanes.

• Resale Value: Curb appeal and reputation for quality increases home value.

• Termite & Rot Resistance: High, especially in Western Red Cedar heartwood.

Cons

• Upfront Cost: 3–5x the cost of asphalt or synthetic alternatives.

• Maintenance Demand: In shaded areas, they will require cleaning from time to time.

• Variability: Quality varies greatly by grade (low-grade roofs may fail prematurely).

• Flammability: Untreated cedar is not fireproof; fire-retardant treatments or specific fire-rated products required in sensitive areas.

• Color Change: Loss of contrasting wood tones after weathering.

• Installation Complexity: Must be professionally installed for performance and warranty compliance.

4. Longevity and Performance

• Expected Lifespan:

  • Western Red Cedar: 15-20 years for lower grades. Premium grade up to 50 years.

  • Eastern White Cedar: Slightly less durable, but still long-lasting with proper care.

• What Affects Lifespan?

  • Grade and type of cedar (Clear heartwood = longer life).

  • Warping, splitting, and cupping of lower grades will cause system failure.

  • Quality of installation—ventilation, nailing, exposure settings, correct underlayment use, keyway settings.

  • Local climate: Moisture, harsh sun, or extreme cold can reduce service life.

  • Maintenance: Proper care (see tips below) extends life substantially.

• Weather Resistance:

  • Naturally resistant to insects, termites, UV, hail, and wind.

  • Regular maintenance is required to prevent moss, algae, and weathering.

• Coloring: Western Red Cedar shows significant color variation—reds and browns, where as White cedar comes with a yellower coloring.

• Weathering: Within 6–12 months, roof begins to ‘silver’ or brown over, becoming more uniform and muted, regardless of the wood type.

Installation

Regardless of the grade chosen, cedar shingles or shakes need to be installed correctly to last. I won’t go into all the details here, but the most important factors to get right are:

• Ventilation: Wood which bakes in the sun day after day will split and fail unless it’s allowed to “breathe” effectively. How the shingles are vented varies based on the type of roof deck they are installed on. If they are installed on a solid wood deck like plywood, they need to have a mesh-style “shingle breather” installed under them so that airflow under the shingles can keep them from deteriorating prematurely.

• Underlayment and Keyways: Underlayment should typically be installed over every row of shingles or shakes. This is to prevent water from penetrating the roof in the case that one would split or crack. A Keyway is the vertical space between each shingle. This needs to be monitored as the shingles are installed – you don’t want two keyways aligned within 3 rows of shingles, so the installer must be vigilant by using differing shingle/shake widths to eliminate this risk.

• Fasteners: Use the wrong fasteners with cedar wood, and they can corrode and rust off. Make sure to use stainless steel, ring-shanked nails when installing cedar roofing.
• Copper Ridge Caps and Zinc Strips: This one is not a must, but consider it. Using copper for caps/ridge lines can reduce moss/lichen growth and adds distinctive beauty. The copper oxidizes in the rain, and this chemical release actually kills off the organic growth on the shingles, keeping them much cleaner and in some cases, free of moss and algae. The same thing is true if you use Zinc Strips.
  But beware – neither of these things will keep the entire roof moss-free. This only works for maybe 5-7 feet down the roof from the copper or zinc. Any further and this oxidization effect wears out the further it goes from the source.

Maintenance Tips

• Inspect Biannually: Look for cracked, warped, or missing shakes/shingles.

• Clear Debris: Remove leaves, branches, and moss—do NOT pressure wash as this will damage the integrity and longevity of the wood. Some roofing companies provide roof cleaning services. Locally, you can go to Atkins Deck Treatment – I know the owner Rick personally, and he does the job right, with the right kinds of washing solutions.

• Trim Nearby Trees: Prevent debris, promote airflow.

• Seal & Preserve: Apply protective stains/sealants – this is not necessary, but if you want to keep the new look of the shingle (the reddish and brown colors), then you will need to seal them.

• Replace Individual Pieces: Spot-replace damaged areas to prevent leaks.

Choosing the Right Cedar Roof: Pro Tips

• Thicker = Better: 5/8in+ thickness resists cupping/warping, lasts longer.

• Always Use Premium/Clear or Grade 1: Avoid Grades 2 and 3, which are more susceptible to early failure and decay.

• Consider Copper Accessories: For added moss resistance and roof longevity.

• Ask for Documentation: Certi-label, source origin, and fire rating if required by code.

• Expert Installation: Make sure the contractor you choose has real-world experience. I would go so far as to ask for a few houses where they’ve installed cedar, ask for the date of installation, and go take a look to see how the roof looks (the older, the better for this one).

Fire Safety

• Standard cedar is combustible, but pressure-impregnated fire-retardant shakes/shingles meet rigorous code requirements and pass UL 790 or ASTM E108 fire tests.

• Some building codes require only fire-rated cedar roofing products—check local regulations.

• Certi-Guard shingles and shakes are available – these have been pressure-impregnated with fire-resistant polymers to reduce the flamability of the cedar wood.

Conclusion

There you have it – pretty much all I know about cedar roofing. It’s an incredible roofing material, looks awesome on the right building. If you take my points above into consideration, and go with a premium grade product that’s correctly installed, you can enjoy the ooohs and aaaahs from your friends for years to come, leak-free and worry-free.

Ready to do this? Contact my company and we’ll help you do it right!

The post All About Cedar Wood Shakes and Shingles: What You Need to Know appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

• How long does it actually last?
• Do I have to paint it or maintain it in other ways?
• Is it worth the cost increase from other siding like vinyl?

I have answers to these questions, but they are nuanced and subjective. However, I hope that they can help you make the decision for your home.
As a contractor who’s been doing home exteriors since 2005, I’ve seen my fair share of siding problems and solutions. Here’s me going over the basics in the video, and then below I get into more of the details as well.

A Quick History Lesson: Who Is James Hardie?

James Hardie was a real person—a Scottish immigrant who moved to Australia in the 1880s and founded a building materials company. Over time, that small business became James Hardie Building Products, the global leader in fiber cement technology.

Today, “Hardie Board” is practically synonymous with fiber cement siding. It’s the Kleenex of the category.

What Is James Hardie Siding Made Of?

James Hardie siding is made from a blend of:

• Portland cement

• Sand

• Cellulose fibers

• Water

They mix it all up, throw it into a mold — and out comes a nice Hardie plank! Ok, not that easy, but the manufacturing process produces a very consistent and sturdy result.

Pros of James Hardie Siding

✅ 1. Longevity That Outlasts Most Options

Fiber cement is built to last. James Hardie siding comes with a 30-year non-prorated warranty—and real-world use shows it can easily last 50+ years with proper care. That’s a solid warranty because that means that for the first 30 years, It doesn’t rot, warp, melt, or get chewed up by bugs like wood and vinyl can.

✅ 2. Major Curb Appeal

Hardie siding looks fantastic. It has the clean lines and deep texture of painted wood, or a smoother, more modern look—but without the upkeep. It’s available in dozens of colors and several styles (lap siding, board-and-batten, shingles, panels, etc.) so you can match any architectural style.

ColorPlus® Technology—Hardie’s baked-on finish—helps keep the color looking rich for years, and resists fading better than typical paint. You can get the product with this factory-applied finish in your choice of color, or you can opt for a simple pre-primed siding which you can then paint on your own.

✅ 3. Exceptional Durability

Hardie siding is built to last, to the point that they actually include specific language on the warranty including:

• Does not contribute to the spread of fire (FlameSpread Index of zero when tested per ASTM E84)

• Does not crack, split, edge check, or warp as
a result of damage from water, heat and freezing
temperatures when tested in accordance with
ASTM C1185.
• Resists damage from hail.
• Will not be damaged by termites or other
wood-boring insects.
• Resists damage caused by woodpeckers.

This is an especially good option to consider if you’ve had termite issues in the past, or live in the woods where there’s a good amount of moss and long-lasting moisture – and woodpeckers or even aggressive squirrels. Yep, I’ve seen damage to vinyl and wood siding products from squirrels. They can chew through vinyl and wood to get into attic spaces or find a cozy place to make a nest.

✅ 4. Great for Resale Value

Hardie siding consistently ranks among the top home remodeling projects for return on investment. According to Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report, re-siding with fiber cement can recoup up to 68% of the cost at resale—more than most remodeling projects for sure. So if you want to upgrade your home to Hardie but are on the fence because of the extra cost, keep this in mind.

Let’s say you sell your home 5 years after you get Hardie siding installed. You paid $30,000 originally. You got the incredible look you wanted. Now you go to sell – $20,000 of that could come back to you just from the increased home value due to the siding, which means you really only end up paying $10,000 for your top-of-the-line Hardie siding project. Not a bad deal, for sure.

✅ 5. Warranty Peace of Mind

I mentioned some of the warranty specifics above. This warranty also has a 30-year Non-Prorated period, which means they will cover the full cost of the defective material for 30 years, up to twice the original cost if necessary.

• 30-year limited product warranty

• 15-year finish warranty on ColorPlus products

• Warranties are transferable, which is great for resale value.

Cons of James Hardie Siding

 It’s More Expensive

This isn’t the budget pick. James Hardie siding can cost 2-3x more than regular vinyl siding. But there are two main reasons to that:

1. Material cost: Fiber cement is more expensive to produce.
2. Labor: It’s heavy and more complex to install, so labor takes longer and costs more.

This second point is a very important one. This product is not as light as vinyl. So if your installer doesn’t take his time to fasten it properly to your wall studs, it will likely slide off over time. That’s the last thing you want. It’s not good enough to just nail it to a 1/2″ wood OSB wall – it needs to be fastened through the OSB and into the wall stud. 

It Will Need to be Repainted

And the biggie. While Hardie siding is low maintenance, you will still need to perform some upkeep mainly when it comes to painting it. Like any other siding, Hardie siding will start to fade, which means you may need to repaint. Here’s how I think through this issue:

If I buy vinyl siding: it’s color fades over time, it gets green and needs to be washed off, etc… At the end of 25-30 years, it’ll probably need to be replaced.

If I buy fiber cement: The initial paint should last 25-30 years. At that time, I can get it washed off and repainted with a fresh coat (in a new color if I want!) for MUCH CHEAPER than what it would cost to replace vinyl siding.

So it’s kind a bit of a toss-up. Yep, it’ll need to be painted at some time in the distant future. So keep that in mind.

So Is James Hardie siding Right For Me?

Hopefully you’re better able to answer this question now. It’s a premium product, and yes—you’ll pay more up front. But over the life of your home, it often ends up saving you money and hassle.

If you’re in a starter home or you’re flipping a house, vinyl might be the better financial move. But if you want to do it once and do it right—this is it.

Final Thoughts: Is It Worth It?

James Hardie siding is a premium choice for sure. 

I would definitely give it a fair look if:

• I lived in the woods (termites, woodpeckers, moss, moisture)
• I lived in a hail-prone area
• I’m in my forever home and want to do it once and do it right
• I wanted a look that sets my home apart from the hundreds of other houses around mine

Got Questions?

If you’re considering Hardie siding and want to know what it would look like (and cost) on your home, give us a shout. At Joyland Roofing, we install siding all across Central PA—and we’re happy to give you straight answers and a quote that makes sense for you.

The post Is James Hardie Siding Worth It? A Contractor’s Honest Take appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

How much should you pay for gutter guards? Do you ACTUALLY need them or not? Which style should I go with if I do?

Here’s a summary video where I go over the basics of gutter guards, including different styles, how to know whether or not you need them, and which styles are and are not effective. Down further, I’ll go into more detail on each specific type, pros and cons, and so forth.

A simple way to figure out whether or not you actually need gutter guards is to ask yourself these easy to answer questions:

• Are there tress overhanging the roof anywhere?
• Are there any trees within 50′ of the roof which are also higher than the gutters?
• Do I live in a windy area where dirt and debris gets blown around a lot?
• Do I live near a golf course or sports area where stray golf balls or tennis balls could land in my gutter?
• Have I had to clean out clogged gutters in the last couple years?

If you are one of the unfortunate souls who answers yes to any of these deep questions, then you’re probably going to want to keep reading. I’ll break down your next question – “Which gutter guard should I get so I don’t have to worry about this again?”

Solid-Style gutter guards like Leafree

You’ve probably seen these before—brands like LeaFree or others. They’re solid metal – or sometimes plastic – covers that sit on top of your gutters and let water run over the edge and into the gutter through a narrow slit.

The idea behind them is simple: water clings to the metal surface and curves into the gutter while leaves and debris slide off.

In theory, it works. In practice? Sometimes.

Here’s the thing: these types of guards have big gaps along the front edge, so anything smaller than a full leaf (like pine needles, shingle grit, or small twigs) can still get in. They also have a flange that goes up under your shingles, which means you gotta break the tar strip seal on the bottom shingle to get these up under. And then, unless the installer re-applies new roof cement to bond the shingle back down to the top of the gutter guard flange, you’re left with a bottom row of shingles which could blow off in windy conditions.

Another thing: they’re bulky and easy to spot from the ground. If you care about the look of your roofline, this might not be for you.

Aaand another thing: If your roof is too steep, these might not work well either. 

Bottom line? It’s an okay option in some cases, but hardly ever my first pick:

• Higher material costs than many other options
• Higher labor costs due to having to integrate into the roof
• Can be hit-or-miss on how much debris it keeps out
• Can be seen from the ground

Set-In style gutter guards like GutterRX

This is one I actually used on my own house. Gutter RX is one of many brands like this – a lightweight, perforated aluminum guard that sets right on top of your existing gutter. It’s low-profile, so you can’t see it from the ground, and it doesn’t mess with your roof at all.

What I like most is its design—those little ribs across the surface aren’t just for looks. They help debris like leaves dry faster and give the wind a way to lift them off, keeping the guard clear without you needing to do much at all.

It’s easy to install (just a few aluminum screws into the front and back), which means lower labor costs. And for most homes, especially those without pine trees nearby, this is a great solution.

The only downside? If you’ve got pine trees overhead, the needles can still slip through. Not usually enough to clog things up, but worth noting if you have lots of coniferous trees nearby.

But all things considered, this is definitly my go-to:

• One of the lowest-costing guards on the market giving you a great cost-to-benefit ratio
• Don’t wear out because they’re aluminum
• Very simple to install
• Doesn’t mess with the roof shingles at all
• Can handle large volume of water pouring off a roof

Micro-Mesh style gutter guards like Gutter Xtreme

If there’s one gutter guard would turn to that does it all, it’s Gutter Xtreme.
Again, there many different brands that have a similar product, but this is the one I’ve used and landed on as a great balance between function and price.

It takes the same basic idea as Gutter RX—low-profile, non-invasive, and built to sit directly on the gutter—but adds a fine stainless steel mesh over the top. That mesh keeps out everything. Pine needles, shingle grit, bugs, leaves, squirrels, stray tennis balls – you name it.

Underneath, the mesh is supported by a strong expanded metal that holds up well to heavy rain and snow, and allows water to flow freely into your gutters without letting any debris sneak through.

It’s a little pricier than Gutter RX, but still nowhere near the cost of some of the big-name systems being sold for $25+ a foot that are arguably less effective.

For most homes, Gutter Xtreme hits the sweet spot when it comes to aesthetics, doing the job well, and not breaking the bank. It’s practically indestructible, is easy to install, and keeps out everything.

• Mid-range product cost, but easy to install
• Really is a fail-safe system – keeps everything out
• Can’t see it from the ground
• Doesn’t mess with the roof shingles
• High value-to-cost ratio – it works superbly, and doesn’t cost a fortune.

What About the Cheap Big-Box Store Options like clip-on or plastic gutter guards?

You’ve probably seen the clip-on gutter guards at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Thin metal or plastic pieces you snap on, or foam inserts that sit inside the gutter channel.

Honestly, I think these are short-term fixes for the most part. Now I know that’s a broad statement. And I’m not here to say none of them ever work. It’s just hit-and-miss.

The snap-on styles tend to loosen and flip up with heavy rain or wind, and don’t stand up well over time. These products often have holes that are too big and so end up letting junk into the gutters anyway. Whatever you do, I’d at least recommend that you don’t get a plastic one, because these will likely break/crack due to heat and cold cycles, tree branches falling, etc…

The foam-type insert ones are even worse—they work initially, but clog up fast with fine debris. And then once they’re saturated, they actually cause more overflow issues than they solve. So just stay away from those.

If you’re desperate and on a tight budget, they might be better than nothing… but who wants to buy a product to do a job, and then go do that job anyway because the product failed (“you had ONE JOB!”)?

My final advice on gutter guards

Don’t Overlook the Color

Here’s something most people don’t think about: the color of your gutter guard actually matters.
We recommend darker colors, especially in places  where you get snow and ice. A black or brown guard will absorb more sunlight and melt snow and ice faster than a light-colored one. That helps reduce ice buildup and strain on your gutters during the winter months.

Take my easy 5-question test above

It’s the tried-and-true evaluation for whether or not you need gutter guards. Some guys might try to say that you “should always have gutter guards because shingle grit will get in your gutters!” If that’s the only problem, I wouldn’t do it. I’ve never seen shingle grit/granules cause an issue in gutters. And I’ve been on thousands of roofs, and seen thousands of gutters with shingle grit in them.

Fact is, if you’ve never even thought of your gutters in years, you probably don’t need gutter guards. Despite how much the door-knocking salesman might wish to convince you otherwise.

Head over to my gutter pricing page

For the basics – you should be able to find gutter guards supplied and installed for between $12 and $20 per foot. But take a look at my gutter pricing page to get the details on how the prices work for each of the products listed above.

If your gutters are old and creaky, replace them first

Fair enough. While you can definitely install gutter guards on existing gutters (that’s what we do most of the time), you do need to be sure that they are still well fastened, sealed, and in solid condition. Nobody wants to install gutter guards on junky gutters that fall off a year later.

Don’t overspend…OR underspend!

They’re not all created equal. Some are overpriced and underperforming. Others are cheap and really don’t work all that great. If it’s on a TV commercial or being sold by a high-pressure salesman with an hour-long pitch, pass it up. It might work but it’s probably dreadfully overpriced.

But when you find a product that matches your home’s needs and is installed properly, gutter guards do make a big difference.
They cut down on maintenance, prevent clogs and overflows, and help protect your home from water damage. We’ve got various options, depending on your roof type, tree cover, and budget.

And by the way, I never had to clean out the gutters on my home after I put those GutterRX guards on. I didn’t have any pine/coniferous needle trees, only leafy trees.

We’d be happy to take a look at your setup and help you figure out the best option.

Have questions we didn’t answer here? You can contact us anytime!

The post Are Gutter Guards Worth It? Here’s What You Should Know appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Let’s break it down.

What Is a K Gutter?

The K gutter is by far the most common gutter type you’ll see on modern residential homes. It’s easy to identify by its shape: it has a flat back that sits flush against your house and a curved, decorative front that gives it a little more style than a plain

K gutters are formed on-site from large rolls of metal coil. That means we can make them in any length, from one foot to 100 feet, completely seamless. Fewer seams mean fewer opportunities for leaks, which is always a win when it comes to water managmemnt

These gutters typically come in two sizes: 5-inch and 6-inch widths, depending on how much water your roof needs to handle.

Installation – Simple and Secure

K gutters use what’s called a hidden hanger system. You won’t see any brackets from the ground — these hidden hangers clip into the gutter, hook onto the fascia board, and are secured with a screw. It’s an efficient, low-profile way to install gutters that keeps everything snug and sturdy.

What Is a Half Round Gutter?

Half round gutters, as the name suggests, are shaped like a half-circle. They offer a classic, timeless look and are especially popular on older or historic homes, or on homes where the architectural style leans more traditional.

Unlike K gutters, half round gutters are usually installed in 20-foot sections and require a few more components. The gutter itself hangs in a rounded bracket that’s mounted to your fascia board. The installation process takes a bit more time and effort, and the materials tend to be more expensive.

But the payoff is a beautiful, elegant system that adds to the charm of your home.

Which Gutter Is Right for You?

Both K gutters and half round gutters are effective at channeling rainwater and protecting your home from water damage. Here’s a quick summary:

• K Gutters: Affordable, simple to install, low maintenance, and perfect for most single-family homes.

• Half Round Gutters: Aesthetic, historic look with more involved installation and a higher price tag.

If your home has a traditional or historic design, or you’re going for a high-end look, half round gutters might be the way to go. But for most homes, K gutters are a reliable and budget-friendly choice.

Need Gutter Service?

At Joyland Roofing, we offer complete gutter services — from full installations and replacements to repairs and custom downspout systems. Whether you’re updating your home or need help figuring out what kind of gutter system you need, we’re here to help.

Contact us today for expert advice and a free estimate.

The post K Gutters vs. Half Round Gutters: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Joyland Roofing.

Wood Siding: Wood siding, including pine and cedar, is a traditional choice known for its natural, warm appearance. Cedar is particularly noted for its resistance to rot and insects and its dimensional stability, while pine is more affordable. However, wood siding requires regular maintenance such as painting or staining to protect it from weather and UV damage​​.

Vinyl Siding: Vinyl siding is popular due to its low maintenance requirements, durability, and affordability. It comes in various styles and can even mimic the look of wood. However, vinyl may be prone to cracking in extreme temperatures and, being synthetic, has a distinct appearance from natural materials​​​​.

Engineered Wood Siding: Engineered wood offers a middle ground with the appearance of wood but greater durability and lower cost. It’s made from wood byproducts and resin, can be easily painted or stained, and requires less maintenance compared to natural wood​​.

Fiber Cement Siding: This material is a mix of cement, sand, and cellulose, offering the look of wood without the maintenance hassles. It’s known for being durable, water-resistant, noncombustible, and termite-resistant. Fiber cement siding is also a popular choice for modern architectural designs​​.

Metal Siding: Though less common, metal siding (steel and aluminum) is durable and long-lasting. Steel is more durable but can rust, while aluminum is rust-resistant but more prone to denting​​.

Stucco: Common in Spanish-style homes, stucco is versatile and strong, offering a lifespan of around 100 years. However, it requires more maintenance and is not suitable for very moist climates​​.

Stone and Stone Veneers: For a rustic look without wood, stone is a durable option with minimal maintenance. Stone veneers can also provide the aesthetic of real stone without the material and installation costs​​.

When choosing siding, consider factors like your local climate, the maintenance you’re willing to perform, energy efficiency, aesthetic preferences, and how the siding will impact your home’s resale value​​.

For expert advice and professional installation of the perfect siding for your home, contact Joyland Roofing & Exteriors. Our team can guide you through the selection process and ensure a high-quality installation that enhances your home’s beauty and durability.

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